“Caballero de Paris” Havana, Cuba.

Vagabond, Intellectual, Artist, Philosopher,..? Certainly an ambassador for peace and goodwill, Senor Jose Maria Lopez Lledin, affectionately known as the “Caballero de Paris” still haunts the old Havana city streets that were his home. This legendary gentleman or “Parisian Knight”, has became such a loveable and famous character in Havana that he has been commemorated in statue form and visited by hundreds of tourists on a daily basis. A life size bronze statue has been positioned outside the San Francisco de Assisi church in the old colonial city and has become something of a tourist attraction and talking point

Stories abound regarding this gentleman vagabond and his title! How and why he received this nickname is a matter of conjecture and discussion as he did not have any family connections with France and was clearly not the holder of a royal title!

Cuban National Archive material suggests he arrived from Spain with other family members at the age of 14 in 1913, and died aged 85 in Havana in1985. At the time of his death his body was buried at the cemetery of Santiago de Las Vegas but has since been removed to the church of San Francisco de Assisi where his statue stands today.

He lived a relatively “normal” life in Havana, being employed in a variety of positions, among these, waiting at tables in Hotels such as Hotel Iglaterra and Telegrafo on Parque Central and possibly working in the offices of legal establishments. What event catalysed his opting for a vagabond life is not clear.  Some say that he was imprisoned for a crime he did not commit and that his imprisonment experiences had such a profound effect upon his state of mind that when released he took to the streets. What is certain is, that post revolution, he became a familiar figure in the old city greeting and talking to everyone he met. He would talk to anyone and everyone and was always friendly and kind. He never used bad language and had an excellent command of the Spanish language which he spoke well, exhibiting a broad general knowledge of the world of literature, poetry, and history. He was famous for his story telling and he spoke in an eloquent, interesting and engaging manner. People said he made up stories, and maybe he did, but his stories were historic and anecdotal about Cuba and the world. Everyone wanted to talk to him, young and old and say he had a calm and very relaxed manner which people found compelling and attractive. People would see him writing and he always carried a portfolio full to overflowing with papers and magazine or newspaper articles about interesting subjects that he would talk about and show or give to people with home he conversed. It’s said that he liked to give flowers to ladies and feather quill pens which he made himself to children. Although he never himself married its believed he had two children.

His appearance was unique! Never mind the weather he wore a black suit, shirt and tie and proper shoes, always well presented but invariably very dirty. His hair was long and he had a goatee beard. His nails were said to be long and curling!!?

He frequented the Paseo de Prado and Parque Central,, Plaza de Armas, and other parts of the old city centre, sometimes he would be seen in central Havana and travelled on the buses. He was a familiar face to all who lived and worked in old Havana, and people today will recount with affection their meetings with him, how he spoke and how he dressed having made lasting impressions on them.

People would give him money and food although he never asked for anything.

At some point it was noticed by some persons in authority that his state of health was deterioration and he was taken to a hospital where he was placed under the care of a Dr Calzadilla a psychiatrist who has written about his case.

Since his death one of the bars in Obisbo has been named Café Paris and you can see one or two photos hanging there plus a drawing.

Havana still has its fair share of street vagabonds but no one quite as colourful or delightful as the Caballero de Paris.

Join us in Cuba on a tour this year and discover Havana for yourself
“A Cuban Snapshot” 7 days tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/
“Mi Cubita” 14 days in tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/

If you would like to read more about Obispo follow the link to our news post
https://encompasstours.com/2013/09/a-stroll-down-obispo-cuba/

If you happen to be walking down the streets of Havana and an open top car passes horn blaring with a young Cuban senorita “dressed to kill” sitting enthroned, you would be excused if you thought the young lady was a bride and this was part of a wedding cavalcade!

Look a bit closer. The young lady looks very young and where is the groom?
The truth is that there is no groom and this young lady is not getting married but celebrating her 15^th Birthday!! It’s a day she will have looked forward to all her life.

It’s a tradition which arrived in Cuba with the Spanish Conquistadores and was continued by the developing upper classes; these being the rich land owners who considered themselves the bourgeois.  Daughters of these families needed to make a good match and so at the age of 15 the young ladies were considered eligible and would be presented to society in all their finery in order to attract a suitable husband. This tradition continued in Cuba into the 20^th century (pre revolution) among a certain class with sufficient spare cash to lavish on their daughters.

The Communist Revolution led by Fidel Castro in 1959 banned many things and people have struggled to maintain their traditions and feel a connection with their ancestors. Today in post revolutionary Cuba, the celebrations have been continued by families of all types who like the idea and try to maintain links with their history and the history of Cuba.

Family life has changed radically since the revolution and having more than one child is not usual, for economic reasons. There is simply not enough money even with two parents working, on an average salary of $20 to $40 per month, to give more than one child a few of the “luxuries” a child needs.

When a girl child is born to a family that wants to continue this 15^th Birthday tradition, a saving “account” will be started and this will be untouchable!! In Cuba they call is “guanaja hecha” which translates as something like “a turkey sitting on an egg”!!  Most Cubans do not have bank accounts so this “account” will be a cash fund that will be controlled by the mother who will hide this cash in a secret place, out of reach of other members of the family. The mother is the person who maintains this fund and adds to it over the years.

When the young lady is about to reach the age of 15, the family begin planning the fiesta and all the family are involved! The extravagance of the celebrations is dependent on the cash available but the format remains the same for all. Of huge importance are the dresses, the photos, and the fiesta!! A public display in a car or carriage will only happen if the money can stretch that far! Driving around town in a fancy car of carriage is a costly business and not many can afford this extravagance!

A selection of dresses will be collected, bought, borrowed or rented and the young lady will be photographed in different outfits and in different locations.  Hair, makeup and jewellery are all part of the ritual and the resulting photographs are displayed proudly in every home by mother and  grandmothers. The extent of the photo taking is entirely dependent on available funds. These days a photo studio complete with dresses to rent, exotic backdrops and photographer can be a more economic option, and create some stunning results.

All the family will gather for a fiesta which normally will be at home and guests will be family members only plus one or two young friends.  Drinks and snacks will be laid on and contributions brought by aunts and cousins are usual. What the young lady does in the evening is much dependant on the family and her own desires, a disco maybe or cinema. All depends on what the family feels is appropriate at the tender age of 15. Until the age of 16 she will not be legally considered an adult!

Cuban law considers 16 the age of consent and the age at which a person can drink alcohol, smoke, drive, be put in prison and marry, however, a parent can sign their consent and marry their child at an younger age.!

Want to discover Cuba for yourself? Join us for a small group tour this year!
“A Cuban Snapshot” 7 days tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

“Mi Cubita” 14 days tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/