Our Man In Havana

If you haven’t read the book or seen the film and you are thinking of visiting Havana, Cuba, then this classic Graham Greene is an easy entertaining read and a must see movie! Directed by Carol Reed with unforgettable roles played by Alec GuinnessBurl IvesMaureen O’HaraRalph RichardsonNoël Coward and Ernie Kovacs.

The novel was first published in 1958 and film shooting began the next year in Havana. It was just two months after the communist revolution of 1959 and Havana would never be the same again! Thanks to the cooperation of revolutionary leader Fidel Castro the city was made accessible to the film crew and Castro visited on set at the Cathedral Square! All filming was done on location; Calle Lamparilla where our hero Wormold had his shop, Hotel Sevilla which at this time had been known for its easily available cocaine and female company, and the opening scenes from the roof top of Hotel Capri which had a roof top pool and was like all hotels and casinos under mafia control.

Our hero Wormold (a vacuum cleaner salesman with an adolescent daughter) is reluctantly recruited as a spy for the British Government and submits false information to keep MI6 happy!  The backdrop of espionage and the threat from the enemies behind the iron curtain are the stuff and nonsense of this delightfully funny and slightly ridiculous story! However as with all Greene’s stories the events are based on true events and encounters he made in his extraordinary life!

Greene the man was easily bored and travelled extensively and compulsively throughout his life….Nicaragua, Liberia (where he was a spy) Haiti, Sierra Leon, Vietnam, Cameroon, Hungry, Indo China, Mexico, Egypt are but a few of the places he travelled and worked.

Starting off as a journalist in Nottingham, he moved eventually to become sub editor of The Times which he later gave up out of boredom! He converted to Catholicism and married his only wife Vivien whom he perused with a great passion but love quickly died. They had some children but he was an absent father, too busy travelling and having many affairs, but remained married to Vivien and in some strange sense “loyal” to her.

A great love of his life was a woman he met in Cameroon. She was married but they conducted a relationship that lasted 32 years! He once said ..”In Africa I learnt to love life again”

His childhood had been unhappy with mental illness in his family and he spent some time himself in a residential psychological rehabilitation centre when only a teenager!

He was a meticulous man with a huge regard for his own work and was very pushy with his books. Physically he was tall with bright pale blue eyes that people he met said, caught and held their attention!

Greene died 1991 in Switzerland; he had fled Britain partly due to being pursued by the tax man. His novels will remain classics of the highest quality.

His themes of the hunted man and his sense of guilt run through his writing. He had a huge sense of place and many of his novel read like film scripts. It’s said that during filming “Our Man In Havana” pages of the book were merely stuck to the story boards to work from directly!

If you want to retrace Greene’s or Wormold’s steps in old Havana you will not be disappointed. The appearance of the Spanish colonial buildings might have decayed since filming in 1959, but the streets and Hotels made famous in the film are still there to be enjoyed today. Room 510 Hotel Sevilla is celebrated as it was his inspiration for part of this unforgettable book. The casinos no longer operate but the ghosts of the mafia are very much alive!

 

Graham Greene was the subject of BBC Radio 4s “Great Lives” series broadcast on August 2nd 2011, and you can listen to it on BBC iPlayer or download it as a pod cast http://www.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/series/greatlives/

 

Enjoy a tour of Cuba and life in old Havana with one of our delightful holidays.

https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/

Sacred Ceiba & Guije!

Did you know that in Cuba the “Guije” live in the Ceiba trees??

The Ceiba tree is one of the family Malvaceae of which there are 10 known species. Its appearance makes it easy to spot; thick straight trunk with spikes on it, forming buttress roots and an umbrella like canopy of leaf and flower cover. The flower which appears before the leaves, develops into seed pods which split to release large quantities of soft, fibrous Kapok, used to fill mattresses, pillows etc. These trees can grow to great heights and live many years, but the wood is only of use for dugout canoes, as it is light and buoyant. For this reason the Ceiba is often the only tree left standing when the forest has been cut down for building materials! The flowers are pollinated by fruit eating bats at dusk or during the night and in Cuba the Ceiba tree is home to the Guije!

Travelling around the island you will encounter many enormous Ceiba trees in the plazas and elsewhere. Around the base of these trees offerings will be placed by devotees practicing the “Santaria” religion dominant in Cuba. Offerings of various types of food, animal blood, flowers or over ripe plantain for example, are placed on the ground around the tree trunk and in return the Ceiba or Chango or Santa Barbara will reciprocate a favour or some kind of help!

The Ceiba represents energy and life, abundance and force, and the force it represents is the strength of Chango or his catholic counterpart, Santa Brabara.

Chango or Sanata Barbara are represented by the colour red; thus the blood offerings!

So would you want a Ceiba in your garden?? NO you would not!

Forget the beautiful flowers and the vast quantities of kapok you might benefit from, the Ceiba tree is also home to the Guije, and you really don’t want to set eyes on him!!!

 

“What type of creature is a Guije?” I hear you ask! “He is not mentioned in my Guide Book”! well…  He is black as coal, and very short in height. His head is big with long straggly plaits. His eyes are enormous and shiny and bright and he only comes out at night!!!  He has two arms and two legs like you and me, and he’s always close to the Ceiba tree. You might catch a glance of him in the corner of your eye looking out from beside the tree trunk, but in an instant he is gone!  Now you have seen him you better take care you better beware!!! He is up to no good and he is always hungry!!!

His favourite food is “Funche” which is made from sweet potato combined with flour into a type of a soup to which alcohol can be added or offered separately!!!

No one wants to see the Guije and no one wants a Ceiba in their garden! If they do have one then they put plates of Funche for the Guije to keep him calm and hope he stays happily in his tree home!

There is so much to enjoy in Cuba why not book onto a tour this year?

“A Cuban Snapshot” takes in Havana, Vinales and Trinidad 7 days
https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

“Mi Cubita” extends the tour to the delightful Pirate city of Camaguey!
https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/

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Waiting for snow in Havana: Book Review

Waiting For Snow In Havana by Carlos Eire first published 2003

ISBN 0 7432 0737 8

EAN 9780743207379

This is a delightful evocative, novel of non fiction telling the story of a privileged Cuban boyhood in an island paradise turned upside down by the revolution of 1959. Christmas was cancelled and life was never to be the same again. The sound of firing squads replaces firecrackers and friends began to disappear from school. People were scared! Carlos along with his brother and 14,000 other children were airlifted alone to the United States in an operation called Peter Pan, in an effort to save lives. With the promise of families to follow… one day.  Son of a lawyer, who is convinced he is Louis XVI , the author recounts evocative tales of childhood pranks and adventures influenced by the imaginative world of his father’s intricate model making and fantasies of noble birth. The story is of a life torn between two lands and two cultures, families forced apart and the difficulties of adjustment and acceptance.

This book is a great read! It will make you laugh and cry at the same time! It will leave you with a beautiful and realistic image of pre revolutionary Cuba and bring into focus on a very personal level the  practicalities of difficult decisions made in haste with best intentions the consequences of which are being lived out by many too young to understand what was going on.

Why not book yourself onto one of our Cuba Holidays and see how the island has transformed!

A Cuban Snapshot is our 7 day tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

Mi Cubita is a 14 day tour
https://encompasstours.com/tours/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/

CUBA – 7 DAYS
A CUBAN SNAPSHOT

The truly unique taste of Cuba today

Capitoilio Havana Cuba

Starting in La Habana the old Spanish capital that has seen better days but has a romance of its own despite the revolution! The tour takes you next to the colonial town of Trinidad and a trip into its sugar plantation past. A relaxing day on an island beach follows, where you can sip a rum Collins or enjoy the under sea world  while getting your sun tan established! We move on to the traditional countryside town of Vinales in Pinar del Rio where the campasinos offer you a taste of tobacco and rum and a night of great dance music. Follow that with a day relaxing on an uninhabited island surrounded by seas of turquoise and blue. This could be paradise! All good things come to an end and we must head back to Havana and say our goodbyes .Why not have one last Mojito in the old city before jumping into a taxi to the airport?

If you have limited holiday time but you want to learn more about this extraordinary island and meet some local people this is the Cuban experience for you.

Warning! Once you have been to Cuba you will want to return!

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