Maceo Cubas Titan!

As a visitor arriving in Cuba your spending money will be the Cuban Convertible Peso or CUC, a currency invented for tourists!

It’s quite unlikely that you will become very familiar with Cuba’s National Money, but it’s well worth taking 3 or 4 CUC to a “casa de cambio” (money exchange) and getting a variety of denominations of Moneda Nacional. Take a look at the portraits on the back of the notes, and you will find a catalogue of heroes and men who have been key forces in the history of Cuba’s struggle for freedom and equality, which continues today.

Take a five peso note…. Its greenish!
On the back is a likeness of a man few people outside of Cuba will be familiar with, but he is considered to be one of the most note worthy guerrilla leaders of the 19th century, and his name is Jose Antonio de la Caridad Meaco y Grajales or Antonio Maceo!
Known as the Bronze Titan “El Titan De Bronce” by Cubans or by the Spanish “el Leon Mayor” the Great Lion he was very aptly named resembling in his stature and leadership qualities, both of these nick names!

Born in the east of Cuba many of the monuments and visual tributes to his achievements are displayed in Santiago de Cuba.

He was born to Mariana Grajales, a mestizo from the Dominican Republic, the first child with her second husband Marco Maceo. Mariana is considered the mother of all Cubans for her remarkable patriotism, determination and bravery on the battle field supporting her husband and sons during the struggles with the Mambi rebels against the Spanish colonialists during the wars of the 19th century.

Antonio Maceo, his father and brothers first took up arms in 1868 in support of the revolt triggered in part by landowner Carlos de Cespedes who freed his slaves in return for their support in an independence struggle against Spain, the famous “Cry of Yara”. Maceo was quickly promoted in the armed struggle for his bravery and intelligence in planning and executing strategic attacks and his obvious leadership qualities. Indeed the army was known as “Maceos Liberation Army”


He famously refused to surrender arms in protest to the signing of the “Pact of Zanjon” after the Ten Year War of 1868 this episode being known as the Baragua Protest!
Maceo had to flee Cuba to save his life from pursuit by Spanish determined to assassinate him and he was resident in Coast Rica when Jose Marti approached him to participate in the war of 1895. After much discussion and planning he returned to Cuba to lead the liberation forces once more.
He adopted Maximo Gomez strategy of using the machete as a ferocious and deadly weapon against the Spanish sword to great effect. The cruel reconcentration of the rural communities into camps similar in degradation and inhumane conditions encouraged many peasants to join the liberation army rather than starve under the Spanish.
Death came in battle in 1896, shot twice in the chest and the head by a Spanish battalion who had no idea of his identity. By his side young Panchito, (son of the famous Maximo Gomez) who had stayed with him in a fatal attempt to protect his general was hacked to death with machetes and left to rot. They had no idea who they had killed!

Maceo fought in more than 500 battles and recovered from more than 25 injuries.
He was a member of the freemasons and believed completely in “God reason and virtue” which he displayed in his actions throughout his life.
He once commented in a letter to a friend “That (country) which attempts to seize Cuba, will gather the dust of its ground soaked in blood, if he does not perish in fight.”

If you would like to visit Cuba and discover for yourself this enchanted island that inspires such patriotic feelings join us on one of our tours!
A Cuban Snapshot   https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

Mi Cubita   https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/     

See our news posts for more articles on all things Cuban!

Valle de los Ingenios

A steam train adventure in Trinidad, Cuba!

One of the most delightful excursions on our tour to Trinidad is the day we take the train to Manaca Iznaga and old sugar plantation!

We all gather at the tiny rural station of Trinidad which looks as though it has been out of use for half a decade. We are  awaiting the arrival of this amazing old steam train which announces itself loud and clear as it approaches! Steam billowing out of the smokestack and smoke from the furnace.  Everyone is eager with anticipation not believing that this puffing monster is going to take us to our destination and back again!

All aboard!

We get onto the old fashioned carriages and take or seats for the trip. After a short delay we chug out of Trinidad under steam, and with several blasts of the whistle, children, bicycles, grazing horses and dogs flee from the train’s path.

The speed is leisurely and we have a superb view of the rural landscape, passing through rough grazing land and small holdings.  A good pair of binoculars at the ready and bird watches will not be disappointed!

The train comes to a stop in the middle of a small bridge and a wide hose is fed into the  stream below to fill us up with water. This takes a little time as the hose looks as old as the train and several holes make it somewhat leaky!!!  Time to chat and look out the windows.

We are off again and continue uninterrupted until we arrive at Manaca Iznaga station.

The colonial house is now a visitor’s centre and the tower is a vivid landmark and reminder of the unhappy people enslaved to work this land, once producing the best sugar in the world. The bell that rang out the hours of work is no longer in the tower but stands on the ground at the entrance to the house. For a peso or two you can climb the tower on its rickety step ladder and the views from the top are awe inspiring.

Down below there are local ladies selling their beautiful pulled thread and embroidered white table clothes and napkins traditional to this region, plus many other knick knacks from further afield. If you are in need of refreshment or toilets these are available in the house, where you may also find an opportunity to sample freshly squeeze sugar cane juice, in the back courtyard.

Once more we return to the train and continue to another colonial house where lunch or other light snacks can be purchased. A typical musical group plays recognisable tunes by well loved Cuban composers and horses are available for a short ride if you are not hungry. Chickens wander around ever hopeful for crumbs and everyone relaxes in the shaded verandas  out of the blazing sun. What a fabulous way to spend the day and see the countryside.

Our return journey is direct to Trinidad with the no scheduled stops ….

Trains and railways have been a crucial part of Cuba’s history and key to the success of the revolution in 1959. If you are a train enthusiast then the train museum in Havana will be on your list of visits and you might fit in the Hershey train from Casa Blanca to Matanzas if you have a free day! It’s a sad reality that the train system in Cuba has been more or less abandoned due to lack of government interest, but thanks to tourism some of these old machines have been revived and continue to earn their keep!

Why not book a tour with encompass tours and se Cuba for yourself?

“Cuban SnapShot”  tour available in October 2012
https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

“Mi Cubita” tour available in December 2012
https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/

Humboldt’s Cuban Footprint

Alejandro von Humboldt in Cuba (“the last man who knew everything”)

Alexander von Humboldt (born in Berlin Sept. 14, 1769 — died in Berlin May 6, 1859) visited Cuba for only a few months on two occasions during his many years exploring and researching South America with Aimé Bonpland, a French born botanist. His short visits have left a large footprint on the island, and his writing there have shaped and influenced many thinkers, leaders and scientists the world over.

If you are in old Havana you can visit a house where he stayed in Calle de los Oficios. It has a bronze plaque dedicated to his memory to the left of the main entrance, and another one with his portrait in relief. There is not a lot to see in the small museum house but, it is more than anything a tribute to a man who was an energetic and tireless collector, thinker, scientist, botanist, humanist, educator, philanthropist, explorer and more! He funded much of his own expeditions and died somewhat hard up due to his philanthropic activities, always keen to help young penniless students in the fields he love and made such significant contributions to.

He was undoubtedly the influence for the works of Charles Darwin who described him in a letter to a friend as “greatest scientific traveller who ever lived” Simon Bolivar who was responsible for the liberation of so many Spanish colonies, said of him “Alexander von Humboldt has done more for America than all its conquerors, he is the true discoverer of America.

While in Cuba Humboldt undertook scientific and social research with collaboration of Cuban landowner and thinker Francisco Arrango y Parreño. He visited regions around Havana as far as Trinidad and Matanzas. They conducted a survey of the city and surroundings and on his second visit he completed a mineralogical survey too.  He and his companion Aimé Bonpland made an extensive collection of Cuba’s flora and fauna, and in honour of Humboldt’s achievements and research carried out on behalf of Cuba a national park in the department of Baracoa has been dedicated to his name “The Alejandro Humboldt National Park”

Humboldt’s theory of life and the world was that “Nature herself is sublimely eloquent. The stars as they sparkle in firmament fill us with delight and ecstasy, and yet they all move in orbit marked out with mathematical precision”. He spent a large number of years writing up his findings and his theories of the sciences and the unity of the world we live in. He wrote an essay on the island of Cuba that was banned by the Spanish who felt threatened by it! It was called “Ensayo Politico sobre la isla de Cuba” and pointed great criticism at the inhumane  practice of slavery and all the injustices and corruption of thinking around its practice!

 

Humboldt was considered by Cubans as the second discoverer of the island and we can be thankful that the practice of slavery in Cuba was soon abolished. Carlos Manuel de Céspedes a landowner and lawyer declared all his slaves free men October 10, 1868 and became the catalyst for liberation from Spain and freedom for slaves in Cuba

If you would like to see Cuba and its beautiful flora and fauna, explore the old cities and rural towns, join us on a tour!

Learn more about Humboldt on BBC Radio 4 podcast with Melvyn Bragg http://www.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/series/iots/all#playepisode59

Why not book yourself onto one of our tours this year?

7 days tour “Cuban Snapshot”
https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

14 days tour “Mi Cubita”
https://encompasstours.com/tours/mi-cubita-cuba13-days/

Coffee Break Havana!!

Coffee  Break al la Francia!

Its not VERY French but “Café Francesa” is the closest most Cubans have ever been to Paris! It’s a popular spot in a busy area and attracts an interesting mixture of clients!! Photos of the Eiffel Tower and other famous views of Paris in black and white are on display inside which is decorated in delicate shades of pink! !

On the covered terrace facing onto Parque Central, there are about ten tables and chairs and inside another five. The menu is not extensive, but you can buy basic sandwiches, and a good range of cakes, pastries, and bread to eat in or take away The coffee is normally good and the usual soft drinks, beers and spirits are available too.

Francia is located between Hotel Telegrafo and Hotel Inglaterra on Parque Central and is a very popular spot day and night where you can while away some time watching the world go by. The opening hours are 8am till midnight and due to its central location in the Hotel zone of old Havana where all tourist pass through, the colourful ladies and independent businessmen it attracts for commercial opportunities and meetings is apparent!

You won’t hear any French music, but the outdoor group playing daily at Hotel Iglaterra  always  provides a nice background of Cuban popular tunes.

 

Want to see for your self?

Join us on tour in October!

https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

Our Man In Havana

If you haven’t read the book or seen the film and you are thinking of visiting Havana, Cuba, then this classic Graham Greene is an easy entertaining read and a must see movie! Directed by Carol Reed with unforgettable roles played by Alec GuinnessBurl IvesMaureen O’HaraRalph RichardsonNoël Coward and Ernie Kovacs.

The novel was first published in 1958 and film shooting began the next year in Havana. It was just two months after the communist revolution of 1959 and Havana would never be the same again! Thanks to the cooperation of revolutionary leader Fidel Castro the city was made accessible to the film crew and Castro visited on set at the Cathedral Square! All filming was done on location; Calle Lamparilla where our hero Wormold had his shop, Hotel Sevilla which at this time had been known for its easily available cocaine and female company, and the opening scenes from the roof top of Hotel Capri which had a roof top pool and was like all hotels and casinos under mafia control.

Our hero Wormold (a vacuum cleaner salesman with an adolescent daughter) is reluctantly recruited as a spy for the British Government and submits false information to keep MI6 happy!  The backdrop of espionage and the threat from the enemies behind the iron curtain are the stuff and nonsense of this delightfully funny and slightly ridiculous story! However as with all Greene’s stories the events are based on true events and encounters he made in his extraordinary life!

Greene the man was easily bored and travelled extensively and compulsively throughout his life….Nicaragua, Liberia (where he was a spy) Haiti, Sierra Leon, Vietnam, Cameroon, Hungry, Indo China, Mexico, Egypt are but a few of the places he travelled and worked.

Starting off as a journalist in Nottingham, he moved eventually to become sub editor of The Times which he later gave up out of boredom! He converted to Catholicism and married his only wife Vivien whom he perused with a great passion but love quickly died. They had some children but he was an absent father, too busy travelling and having many affairs, but remained married to Vivien and in some strange sense “loyal” to her.

A great love of his life was a woman he met in Cameroon. She was married but they conducted a relationship that lasted 32 years! He once said ..”In Africa I learnt to love life again”

His childhood had been unhappy with mental illness in his family and he spent some time himself in a residential psychological rehabilitation centre when only a teenager!

He was a meticulous man with a huge regard for his own work and was very pushy with his books. Physically he was tall with bright pale blue eyes that people he met said, caught and held their attention!

Greene died 1991 in Switzerland; he had fled Britain partly due to being pursued by the tax man. His novels will remain classics of the highest quality.

His themes of the hunted man and his sense of guilt run through his writing. He had a huge sense of place and many of his novel read like film scripts. It’s said that during filming “Our Man In Havana” pages of the book were merely stuck to the story boards to work from directly!

If you want to retrace Greene’s or Wormold’s steps in old Havana you will not be disappointed. The appearance of the Spanish colonial buildings might have decayed since filming in 1959, but the streets and Hotels made famous in the film are still there to be enjoyed today. Room 510 Hotel Sevilla is celebrated as it was his inspiration for part of this unforgettable book. The casinos no longer operate but the ghosts of the mafia are very much alive!

 

Graham Greene was the subject of BBC Radio 4s “Great Lives” series broadcast on August 2nd 2011, and you can listen to it on BBC iPlayer or download it as a pod cast http://www.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/series/greatlives/

 

Enjoy a tour of Cuba and life in old Havana with one of our delightful holidays.

https://encompasstours.com/tours/a-cuban-snapshot-7-days/

https://encompasstours.com/tours/cuba/mi-cubita-cuba14-days/